This kit is for personal use ONLY. Please do not copy, distribute, or sell any part of this design or the instructions without my permission. Pre-Cut & Digital Street Lamps @2022 Jacqueline Smith
Please read all instructions prior to beginning the project. Instructions are given for both the digital and pre-cut versions.
Suggested Material List . . .
- Pre-cut kit has been cut from either 100 lb white cover cardstock or Stardream Metallic 105 lb / 284 gsm Cover Cardstock in Onyx or Bronze
- Materials for Digital Version: Stardream Metallic 105 lb / 284 gsm Cover Cardstock in the color of your choice, or any quality heavy weight cardstock
- Translucent Vellum. I used an Ochre colored vellum for my models as it has a warm color even when the led lights aren’t turned on. You can also use gold shimmer vellum.
- Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue. I put it in a bottle with a thin metal tip. If you are new to making kits, you may want to use Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue as this allows more time for you to reposition your pieces if you make a mistake.
- Metallic acrylic paint in the color of your choice (optional, it you use white cardstock.)
- Govee Warm White Fairy Lights. These are my favorite fairy lights as the string has a USB plug so that you can either attach it to a power supply if you have one available, or to a rechargeable power pack when you do not. It also has a remote. I can set up my village with each building and their street lamps on a base with holes drilled through to the bottom of the base and string the fairy lights from hole to hole and base to base. Then I plug it into my power supply and use the remote to turn on my entire village at once. There are several different modes, including steady on and twinkle. These lights also have a timer, and five different brightness levels. Lastly, the wire is silvery white, so it is easier to hide.
The pieces in your pre-cut kit may look different depending upon which style you chose when you purchased the kit. Your kit will also include pre-cut vellum.
Let’s get started…
Fold and Assemble the Base. The instructions are the same for both the square and hexagon style.
1. The score lines on the base, particularly for the lamp pole, are very close together. I suggest scoring them deeper, then using a straight edge like a ruler to help fold them. I often use a jewelry plier to grasp the cardstock and help me fold it.
2. Glue together the lamp pole.
3. Glue together the base. I suggest gluing it into a square or hexagon and then using your fingers to fold all of the tabs into place. If you have trouble holding them all together, glue one side at a time making sure you press firmly against the lamp pole. Don’t forget to add a dab of glue to the tabs at the bottom of the lamp pole where it enters the base. Once I glued all of the sides together, I inserted a skewer from the bottom to help push each of those tabs tight against the sides of the base.
4. Glue on the bottom piece with the hole.
Assemble the Lamp
5. Glue vellum to the back side of each of the lamp pieces. This is the side that does not have the score line at the top. Then fold the top of each lamp piece back towards the vellum (valley fold.)
6. Add a thin line of glue to one side of one lamp piece, from the peak down to the bottom, but not across. Place a 2nd piece on top of this piece, being careful to align your edges. I found it helpful to press the edges down with my jewelry pliers or tweezers. Repeat with the other 2 – 4 pieces.
7. Now carefully open up each of the 2 sides of your lamp. I gently pressed them down on the table. Once again add a thin line of glue on one of the pieces and attach the sides together. At this point you may need to add a dab of glue at the top and press all of the edges together.
8. Glue the lamp onto your lamp pole. You can also glue on the ladder rest bars I include in the pattern. The hole in the base and the lamp posts are large enough to accommodate the doubled fairy light wire so you can push the little fairy light to the top of the pole.