Recently, there have been multiple people posting pictures to Lucy’s Facebook group of their models decorated with stone walls or partial stone walls. Though there are multiple ways you can make stone walls on your models, my favorite is always achieved by using grit paste and a stencil. I am working on a building pattern where I want a deconstructed stone wall look, so I made my own stencil. If you want a stencil that can be used over and over again cut the stencil out of stencil material or other plastic. If you don’t have any stencil material, however, you can make a one-time use stencil out of cardboard.
The Stone Wall Stencil is the sixth stencil I have made and shared. The first was a Stretcher Bricks pattern or bond, which is the most common of all brick patterns, while the 3rd was a French Bond, a rather unusual brick pattern. The second stencil was for a Stacked Stone Chimney. The fourth stencil was for a Stacked Stone Wall, and the 5th was for a Stone & Brick Arch.
How To Make Your Own Stone Wall Stencil
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The Stone Wall Stencil Specific Materials
- My free Stone Wall Stencil Pattern from the A Cottage in the Forest Library. Design #99. Get the password for free by filling out the form at the bottom of this page
- Blank Stencil Sheets for the stencil. These are a 4 mil milky white and are very easy to cut with just a regular fine point blade. Use a new/ sharp blade. They also come in 12″ x 12″ stencil blank from this company, but they sometimes go out of stock. The larger size cuts just the same.
- Sticky Green Mat. It is important that the mat be sticky. If the stencil can lift up from the mat at all it will not cut correctly. It is not enough to just tape down the edges. I have bought several different mats off of Amazon, and I like the quality of this company the best.
- Tim Holtz Distress Grit Paste
Favorite Materials Supply List
- Cardstock, Cardboard (Kraft Board or alternative), 30 point Chipboard, or Aluminum Can – your choice! Cricut is no longer selling Kraftboard, so I now link to the 120 lb. cover cardstock by Accent Opaque that I use.
- Translucent Vellum or pictures to go in the windows.
- Glue – If using cardstock, I suggest Bearly Art Glue or Art Glitter Glue. For aluminum cans, I use Aleene’s The Ultimate Glue. For cardboard or chipboard houses, I like Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue. I put it in a bottle with a thin metal tip.
- If using chipboard or kraft colored cardboard, start with a base of either Liquitex white gesso or black gesso as primer.
- Decorative papers (optional – for cardboard.)
- Multi-surface satin finish acrylic paints or Ranger Distress Inks or Distress Crayons (for cardboard or cardstock.) Both the FolkArt and the Craftsmart paint brands work equally well. If you use distress inks, make sure they dry thoroughly before handling the pieces or you will have stained fingers. I speak from experience.
- Glitter Gel Pens. I love these for coloring in small details. The company also carries another set with metallic, neon and fluorescent gel pens.
- Tim Holtz Texture Paste or Tim Holtz Distress Grit Paste to make brick or stone chimneys, walls or sidewalks. I actually prefer grit paste as it makes my stonework look rougher or more craggy than texture paste.
- Stencils to use with the texture or grit paste to make stone or brickwork. Be careful to buy or make stencils that fit the scale of your building. For brickwork I often use the Honey Bee Salvaged Bricks stencil or the Stretcher Bricks stencil I cut myself. For stonework I usually use either the Chimney Stone stencil I made myself, or the Stampers Anonymous Tim Holtz Mini Set #28 Stencils.
- Bone folder (optional, but strongly suggested) A bone folder helps you make sharp folds when you are using cardstock or cardboard. I have found it even helps with aluminum cans. I now use my bone folder to deepen score lines all the time.
- A Cutting Machine like a Cricut Maker or Cricut Explore
- A hand-held craft blade like an X-Acto knife or Cricut TrueControl Knife. I also have a hand-held knife called the Excel Knife. It is nice in that it uses the cheaper craft blades, but the blade doesn’t work its way loose like the blade in my X-Acto knife often does. You will also need a cutting mat or a glass media mat to cut on.
- Metal Edged Ruler with cork backing
- An Embossing Machine and folders.
How To Make the Stone Wall Stencil
Download the Stone Wall Stencil Pattern
Download the Stone Wall Stencil Pattern from A Cottage in the Forest Library. It is design #99. Don’t forget to unzip it. The pattern is available in three formats – as a SVG (scalable vector graphics), a DXF (drawing eXchange format), and as a Studio3 file. I don’t provide a PDF for this pattern as you would not want to try to cut it out by hand. If there is enough interest, I could add stencils to my shop for people who don’t have a cutting machine.
Import the Stone Wall Stencil Pattern into Design Software. I used to import the stencil ready to cut, and then I realized that limited you to making the stencil the height and width I made it. You may want to make your stencil wider and shorter, or change it to a different scale.

Once the Stone Wall Stencil Pattern is uploaded into your software, check to make sure the pink 1″ square equals 1″, then delete it. From your shapes menu, select the square and make it at least 1/2″ taller and wider than you want your stencil.
Compare the stencil pattern to your square and decide if you need to make any adjustments. I made this stencil to fit the S Scale that I use to make my models, but if you want a different scale use the chart in my blogpost on How to Change the Scale of a Pattern. Or you can just make it larger or smaller unti the stones are a size you like.

Place the stencil pattern over your square, highlight both, click ALIGN > CENTER, and then click SLICE. Delete all of the excess slice pieces until you have your final stencil. You can now rename your slice result Stone Wall. If you ever want to make another stencil using the same Stone Wall Stencil pattern in a different size, you have the Stone Wall Stencil pattern in your upload library and can follow the steps to make a new stencil.

For the Stencil:
Cut your stencil out of the stencil material. For my Cricut Maker, I used a sticky green mat, the 4 mil Stencil setting with more pressure, and a newish blade. If you use a duller blade not every piece may cut through completely. Usually if you push a piece with a pin tool towards the back, it will snap out, but you may need to wiggle a few of them several times. Remember, if your machine doesn’t cut through completely on the first pass, do not unload the mat, but instead hit the GO button again and it will cut over the previous cut lines a 2nd time.
Using the Stencil:
I use Tim Holtz Ranger Distress Grit Paste for all of my stonework as it gives it a realistic rough stone look. I have a detailed tutorial regarding stenciling using a mask at the Marques Tower tutorial.
That’s it! Enjoy adding this new stone wall pattern to the buildings in your Holiday Village! I would love to see pictures of your village made using my Stone Wall Stencil. Please share a photo of it with me by emailing me at Jackie@acottageintheforest.com.
FREE CUT FILES & PATTERN FOR THE STONE WALL STENCIL
Download the Stone Wall Stencil Pattern
LIKE THIS DESIGN? PLEASE CONSIDER LEAVING A TIP TO SHOW YOUR SUPPORT.
Get the password for the library with the free Stone Wall Stencil pattern and SVG/DXF/Studio3 files here by filling out this form:



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Love these designs
Thanks, Jackie! I love stenciling stones for the houses I make from your and Lucy’s patterns. Do you know what scale Lucy uses for her houses?
Amy, while I have consistently designed my buildings in S Scale (1:64) Lucy has bounced around a bit, being more interested in making sure all of her designs fit on an 8 1/2 x 11″ piece of cardboard than a specific scale. When I make any of her designs I usually have to play around a bit with the sizing until it works with my S Scale. I usually cut just the front, prop it up between a couple of my houses, then eyeball whether I think it needs to be larger or smaller. Look at the size of the door, not the windows or height of the building to help with scale. I use this rule of thumb: If the door is around 1.25″, it is S scale. If it is around 1.66″, it is O scale. If it is around 1.05″, it is OO scale. And if is around .9″, it is HO scale. Of course this is just a round approximation. A Tudor style house will have a shorter door than a castle.
thank you!! this helps enormously!