Before you start your new kit, think about how you will want to decorate it. You can paint the house, paint the house and glitter it, glitter just parts of the house like the roof, use the kit pieces as a guide to cut out decorative paper that you can glue onto the house, or just leave the building white for a modern look. If you leave any portion of the house as unpainted cardboard, I suggest spraying with a matte acrylic sealer like Krylon or Modge Podge Sealer.
Suggested Material List . . .
- Pre-cut kit has been cut from White Kraft Board. This is equivalent to 120 lb cardstock or cardboard. Two small pieces are cut out of 110 lb cardstock as the Kraft Board is too thick to make delicate folds.
- Aleene’s Fast Grab Tacky Glue. I put it in a bottle with a thin metal tip.
- Bone Folder – A bone folder helps you make sharp folds when you are using cardstock or cardboard. While the kit comes pre-scored, you might want to make the scoring deeper with a bone folder.
- Multi-surface satin finish acrylic paints in your color choices. I find that if I use the multi-surface paint I do not need to gesso the cardboard first. Two coats are usually required.
- To glitter the house: Extra fine glitter or extra fine iridescent glitter and Spectra Glitter Sparkling Crystals (mixed 50/50) and Modge Podge. I like to apply the Modge Podge with a foam brush to one side of the building at a time, glitter, then move on to the next side. You may like your building glittered with only the extra fine glitter, but I liked adding a slightly chunkier glitter to it too.
- To make the snow: Woodland Flex Paste, Woodland Soft Flake Snow, and Hemway White Ultra Sparkle Glitter. Apply the flex paste and sprinkle a combination of the soft flake snow and Ultra sparkle glitter over it while it is wet. Use a little Modge Podge on a brush to add more of the snow mixture once the flex paste is dry.
NOTES . . . (read before starting)
- Due to variations by each builder you may find a trim piece a tad longer than needed. If this happens, simply trim it down to fit.
- DO use the cutting guide below to identify all of the pieces! It’s always a good idea to lay out all of the pieces before you start so that you have everything in the correct place. I include a few extra window frames in the kit.
Cutting Guide …
Your kit will include either the Regular Back, Regular Bottom Insert, and 3 windows and a door OR the Putz Back, Putz Bottom Insert, and a strengthening ring for the Putz hole, depending on which option you chose when you purchased the kit.
Let’s get started . . .
The following instructions are to show you how the building should be constructed. I show the order of construction without any paint or glitter. Think about how you will finish the building and if any parts will need to be painted or finished before being glued in place.
There is no wrong way to paint, glitter and glue. Personally, I like to paint the trim and walls when flat, then glue the trim onto the building, add the vellum, and then glue the building together. I then glitter the completed building. However, I know people who glitter the building while flat before gluing it together. I suggest you try different methods until you find out what works best for you. Tutorials for various ways to decorate your house can be found on the Putz House Monthly Website. A tutorial on how to make siding for your farmhouse can be found here.
Constructing the Building
1. Fold all of your pieces towards the back or inside (mountain folds), except the front of the Main Roof and the left tab of the Front Right, as shown below.
2. Glue all window frames in place.
3. For the doors, determine if you want them to be ajar or closed. I show one of both. If ajar, sandwich a small piece of vellum between the attached door and the additional door. Glue on the doors and door trim.
4. Now is the time to glue vellum in place if you are using it.
5. Glue the Front Right onto the Back, first gluing the sides, then the roof tabs.
6. Glue the Front Left to the Front Right tab, first gluing the side, then the roof tab.
7. Glue the Front Left to the Back along the back seam.
8. Glue each of the popouts together, then glue onto the building, aligning the cutouts for the light.
9. Check the fit of the bottom insert piece, adjusting any of the fold lines as necessary. Align the door cutout on the back (cut the tab off if your door is going to be ajar), and glue into the bottom of the farmhouse. I put the bottom insert piece flat on my work surface and lower the building onto it. I can then use a pen inserted from the top to push the tabs against the sides of the building. The bottom insert piece helps to stiffen and square up the walls of the building.
10. Glue on each of the roofs. Glue on the Main Roof before gluing on the Peak Roof. I have a cutout on the roof where the chimney will sit to allow light to filter out from the top of the chimney.
11. For the Chimney, I made a separate fold piece to go over the top of the chimney. This adds a little more dimension to the chimney and when you glance inside it looks more finished. Glue it on before you glue the chimney together. When dry, attach the chimney.
12. Fold the Porch posts into long rectangles and glue. Fold the porch with stairs as shown in the picture below.
13. Glue each of the stair side tabs, then attach under the front door. Attach the posts to the porch and glue the porch roof to the top. The folded edge is glued to the front of the house.
14. Use the included cardstock to make a base. The kit also includes pieces for a farm fence.
This piece can be finished with any method you are used to. Don’t worry about it being perfect. Just have fun and enjoy the process!
Farmhouse by Meg Danforth
Farmhouse by Teri Hanson
Farmhouse by Elizabeth Newbrough
Farmhouse by Rose Moore-Blackford